Kolkata in Kartik: Kali Puja night and Bhai Phonta कार्तिक में कोलकाता: काली पूजा की रात और भाई फोंटा

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In most of North India, the new-moon night of Diwali belongs to Lakshmi. In Kolkata the same night belongs to Ma Kali. This year that Amavasya falls on Sunday 8 November, and the main Kali Puja is done late at night, in the hours around midnight.

## What the night looks like

Neighbourhood pandals are smaller and more intimate than at Durga Puja. Homes light rows of earthen lamps and candles along the balcony and the roof. Old temples such as Kalighat and Dakshineswar are full from evening onwards, and many families prefer to watch the aarti from home or visit a smaller local temple instead.

In homes, the puja is simple. A clean place, an image or picture of the Mother, red hibiscus flowers, a lamp, incense, and an offering of sweets and fruit. Many families sing a few lines from Ramprasad or Kamalakanta, the poet-devotees whose songs to Kali are still sung all over Bengal. The feeling of these songs is that of a child talking to its mother, sometimes complaining and always trusting.

## If you are abroad

Bengali families in London, New Jersey, Toronto, Dubai and Sydney often keep Kali Puja at the community hall on the nearest weekend, since 8 November is a Sunday this year. At home you can keep it on the night itself. Ask your local temple or community for the puja time in your city, because the timing follows the moon in your own time zone.

## Bhai Phonta

A few days later comes Bhai Phonta, the day a sister puts a small mark of sandalwood paste on her brother's forehead and prays for his long life. This year it falls on Wednesday 11 November, when the Dwitiya tithi is running at sunrise in Kolkata. As always, follow the panjika your family uses.

The phonta is put on with the little finger of the left hand, a sister says a short rhyme that families pass down, and then there are sweets, a gift and usually a large lunch. Brothers who live far away often get the phonta over a video call, and many sisters mark it on a photograph. It still counts.

## A small suggestion

Light one extra lamp on Kali Puja night for someone in the family who cannot be home this year. It is a quiet way to keep them in the evening.

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