The theerthams: bathing in the sea and the temple wells

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Namaste. Let us begin with one slow breath together. In. And out.

In the last sitting we stood before the two lingas of Rameswaram, the one Sita shaped from sand and the one Hanuman carried from the north. Today we go to the water. For many pilgrims, Rameswaram is first of all a place of bathing, in the sea at dawn and then at the wells inside the temple. Let us walk through that day together, slowly, and also talk about how to do it with care.

The word we will hear most today is theertham. It is the Tamil form of the Sanskrit tirtha. A tirtha is a sacred water, and also a place of pilgrimage. The word comes from a root that means to cross over, so a tirtha is a place where one crosses, like a ford in a river. At Rameswaram, where Rama's army is remembered crossing the sea, the word feels especially at home.

In the old pilgrimage tradition of India, a tirtha was more than a place to wash. It was a place to arrive after a long journey, often on foot, and to stop. People came to bathe, to pray, to remember their ancestors, and to meet other pilgrims from far away. Rameswaram has been such a place for a very long time, and on any morning you will hear many languages at the water's edge.

The day usually begins at Agni Theertham. This is the sea itself, on the eastern side of the town, just outside the eastern gate of the temple. The water here is usually shallow and gentle, and at first light you will see families standing in it up to their knees or waist, dipping, pouring water over their heads, and folding their hands towards the rising sun and towards the temple.

A local tradition links the name Agni Theertham to Agni, the god of fire, and to the story of Sita's trial by fire after the war. Other tellings explain the name differently. We share it as the town tells it, and we note that traditions differ.

A few gentle notes for the sea. Stay in the shallow water, and keep children within arm's reach. Listen to the lifeguards and the local people, who know how the water behaves that day. Do not leave soap, shampoo or plastic in the sea. And please take your wet clothes away with you when you go. The shore is cared for by the people of the town, and it is kind to leave it clean.

If the sea is rough, or the tide has made the water deeper than usual, it is perfectly fine to simply stand at the edge, scoop a little water in your hands and pour it over your head. Many elders do exactly that. The sea is the same sea.

After the sea, many pilgrims walk, still wet, into the temple, to bathe at the theerthams inside. The temple's own published history counts twenty-two of them within the temple walls. Some are wells, some are small tanks. Each has its own name. Some carry the names of deities, like Mahalakshmi Theertham. Some carry the names of places and rivers from across India, like Gandhamadana, Ganga, Yamuna and Gaya. As you move from one to the next, it can feel as if the whole land has been gathered into one courtyard.

The wells are spread through the temple's corridors and courtyards, so the bathing is also a walk. You go from one to another along a set route, sometimes in a line of people, sometimes in a small group led by someone who knows the way. It takes time, often an hour or more on a busy day, so it is good to set out without hurry.

The bathing is simple to watch and moving to take part in. At each well, a temple attendant lowers a bucket, draws the water up and pours it over your head and shoulders. Then you move on to the next. Families go together, holding hands, sometimes laughing at how cold the water is, sometimes very quiet. The last of the wells in the usual order is often Kodi Theertham, and pilgrims tell us that by the time they reach it, they have forgotten the crowd around them.

The Setu Mahatmya of the Skanda Purana speaks of these waters and the other holy places of the setu region at great length, and praises bathing in them. We leave the Purana's praises to the Purana. What we can tell you is what pilgrims describe: a feeling of being washed, slowly, and made ready.

Some pilgrims bathe in silence. Some say the name of Shiva or Rama quietly to themselves at each well. Some simply count the wells, one after another, so as not to miss any. There is no single right way. If you would like to say a name or a short prayer at each theertham, say it softly, in your own words, and let the water do the rest.

Now some practical notes, offered with respect, because this is a physical day and people of all ages take part.

Go early if you can. The queues grow as the day goes on, and the morning is cooler. Wear modest clothes that you do not mind getting completely wet, and bring a full change of dry clothes and a bag to carry the wet ones. Many pilgrims change into dry clothes after the bathing and then go for darshan of the lingas. Follow what the temple staff tell you, as rules and routes inside can change.

The floors of the corridors are stone, and after hundreds of wet feet they can be slippery. Walk slowly. Hold the hand of elders and children. If you have knee or back trouble, take your time and rest when you need to.

And a line of care that matters. If you are unwell, pregnant, elderly, sensitive to cold, or taking medication that affects you in cold water, please follow your doctor's advice. You do not need to bathe at every well. Many people receive just a little water on the head, or sprinkle a few drops on themselves, and that is a complete and sincere offering. Stop if you feel uncomfortable at any point.

After bathing, dry yourself well and change as soon as you can, especially if there is a breeze from the sea. Drink some water, eat something light, and give yourself a few minutes of rest before you join the queue for darshan. A calm, comfortable pilgrim prays more easily than a tired and shivering one.

Beyond the temple, the island has other waters too. Rama Theertham and Lakshmana Theertham are tanks on the island, and the Setu Mahatmya names many more holy places across the region. You do not need to see them all. Many pilgrims choose a few and visit them unhurried, and that is enough.

Some families also come to Rameswaram to perform rites for their ancestors at the sea, guided by priests who know their customs. These practices differ from community to community, and from family to family. If this is part of your visit, your family elders and your own priest are the right people to guide you.

It is worth asking why water sits at the centre of so much Indian worship. Water is given to the deity, and water is poured over the worshipper. Before a puja, water is sprinkled to make the place ready. In many homes, the day begins with arghya, an offering of water to the sun from a small vessel. At Rameswaram, the sea, the wells and the lingas are all joined by water, from Ganga water carried from the north to the waves of Agni Theertham.

Let us take a small moment with water now, wherever you are. If you have a glass or cup of water near you, hold it for a moment. If not, simply imagine one. Think of where this water has come from, the rain, the river or the well, and the people who brought it to you. Offer a quiet thanks in your own words.

Let us gather what we heard.

A theertham is a sacred water, a place of crossing. At Rameswaram, the day often begins in the sea at Agni Theertham, just outside the eastern gate. Then pilgrims bathe at the theerthams inside the temple, twenty-two by the temple's own count, each with its own name, often ending at Kodi Theertham. Go early, bring dry clothes, walk slowly on the wet stone, keep the shore clean, and follow your doctor's advice if you are unwell. A few drops on the head is a complete offering.

One thing to take with you. This week, before you drink your first glass of water in the morning, pause for a moment and give thanks for it. A small daily theertham, right where you are.

In the next sitting, we dry off and walk the long corridors of the temple, and we meet the Sethupathi rulers who built so much of what pilgrims see today.

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